Renoir in Guernsey, an artists perspective on Moulin Huet

140 years ago, during the summer of 1883, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, the celebrated French Impressionist painter, sought creative inspiration on Guernsey. Enchanted by the island’s rugged cliffs and tranquil bays, Renoir spent time immersed in the natural beauty that surrounded him. 

Seeking respite from the urban bustle, he set up his easel at various locations, notably capturing the captivating scenes of Moulin Huet Bay. Here, he found inspiration in the interplay of light and shadow, the vibrant hues of the sea, and the overall enchanting atmosphere of the island.

The paintings he created on Guernsey’s South coast, mostly around Moulin Huet became, in retrospect, a turning point in his artistic direction as he started to explore the human figure in nature for the first time.

“What a pretty little land! What pretty paths! Superb rocks, beaches like those Robinson must have had on his island, plus rump steak and ale at affordable prices, in short so far everything is lovely here. I just have to take advantage of the admiral weather at the moment and bring back nice things to gain forgiveness for being unfaithful to beautiful Normandy”

Letter from Renoir to Paul Berard, September 1883

Renoir Exhibition

To celebrate Renoir’s time here in Guernsey there’s a quite remarkable exhibition of his work at Candie Museum St Peter Port with the sterling work of the crew at Guernsey Museums , Art for Guernsey and the Musée des Impressionnismes Giverny. 

It’s great to see his body of art in the context of Guernsey and how his creative direction changed after his visit to the island. If you have the chance, I’d highly recommend you visit the exhibition, it’s on until 17th December 2023.

According to the exhibition Renoir was at an artistic cul de sac when he arrived on Guernsey and was charmed by the freedom with which swimmers would shed their clothes and plunge into the sea – a very different custom to the staid beaches of France and Britain at the time.

After his Guernsey visit, Renoir began focusing on painting nudes in landscapes, which helped him make his mark on the US and shaped his career from now on.

“You cannot imagine how pretty it all looks, with women and men lying together on the rocks. It’s much more like being in a Watteau landscape than in reality. So I’ll have a real source of graceful motifs that I will be able to use. Delightful bathing costumes and, as in Athens, women completely unafraid of the proximity of men on the neighbouring rocks.”

Letter from Renoir to Paul Durand-Ruel, September 1883

The Renoir Walk

If you wander down to Moulin Huet on the South coast of Guernsey you’ll stumble across the start of “the Renoir Walk”. On this stunning hike you will follow in his footsteps and take you through some of the views that Renoir painted along the way plus with some more in-depth information about Renoir’s time in Guernsey.

It’s quite a steep walk around but the views are worth it and you can always stop for a nice cuppa at the lovely Renoir Cafe, midpoint round the walk. If you have the legs its worth continuing your walk up the many steps towards Saints Bay. You’ll be rewarded with stunning views all around.

My take on Renoir in Guernsey

I’ve seen Renoirs in the past but to have them in the context of Guernsey and the fact it was a important turning point in his career add layers of fascination to the artwork. It is amazing to see these original Renoir’s in the flesh. The colours you see in books and online do not give these picture the beauty they behold.

I’m very lucky to live 5 minutes walk from Moulin Huet, which inspired Renoir so much. When I’m there I feel his presence and it definitely inspires me to create more art.

If you’re a keen artist yourself, I’d recommend visiting Moulin Huet with a sketchbook, you’ll have a feast of locations to paint and follow in the footsteps of Renoir. 

I’m going to be doing more paintings in the area but the ones I have done on my site currently which are from similar areas to Renoir’s paintings are here:

Petit Port Blue

Saints Bay

Icart Blue